Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Cave Art Mystery!

The mysteries just keep on getting bigger!  Cave paintings similar to those found in Europe have been found high in the cliffs of the Great South African Escarpment.  REALLY?!  How is that explainable?

If you are as intrigued by all this as I am, be sure you read my previous post, and then you may enjoy this video...Let me know what you think~





Let me hear from you! I'd love to know your theories...
Ancient Apparitions -Watercolor, acrylic gesso, ink on paper  11X15 $300
Rebecca Zdybel


Rebecca Zdybel
Artist, Instructor, Art-Travel Instructor
Art Lessons in all media
Myrtle Beach, SC
rebecca@artmyrtlebeach.com

Spread Light, Share Love, DO Art!

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Rebecca Zdybel is an artist and instructor in Myrtle Beach, SC.  Follow her and see her work at http://www.artmyrtlebeach.com/


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Sunday, June 1, 2014

Cave Paintings at Cougnac and Pechmerle


France: Cougnac and Pechmerle Caves-  Go and GO SOON!
A page from my trip journal...

Sometimes the things you see on a vacation are a complete surprise. These caves were fantastically surprising!  The definition of great art for me, is a painting that intrigues me, with mystery or a sense of story that draws me in and captivates me. These caves and their paintings have all that and more...  





Talk about other-worldly!  The caves of France are incredible and a MUST SEE, as far as I'm concerned.  Cougnac caves are near Le Vieux Couvent in Frayssinet, which was our home base.  Pechmerle is also nearby. Once I experienced the Cougnac caves, I vowed to see as many others as possible.  Thankfully, a small group of us took another trip and made the effort to see Pechmerle while in France.  Thanks to Karlyn Holman for helping us to make that arrangement!  It was another moving glimpse into our connection with artists from our ancient past.

Cougnac Caves-


The idea of artists painting in caves is not news.  We've all heard about it, but experiencing it is another thing entirely!  I thought the drawings would be like frescoes or decorations which might be found just inside the door or cave entrance.  Well I couldn't have been more wrong!  First of all, there's no door.  Second of all, it was an incredible effort just to make your way to the place where the first artists created  their paintings.


The artists who decorated the walls of ancient caves were painting with saliva and ground minerals approximately 25-30,000 years ago! Imagine that...it's awe inspiring and difficult to even comprehend.  What that means is that art was an impulse and a form of expression present in our earliest ancestors.  Homo sapiens were vying for domination of the humanoid species, but Cromagnun man (and woman!) may have been among the first artists.  In fact, published research from 2013 indicates that the MAJORITY of cave painters were female! How about that?! We didn't hear about the female artists during our tours of the caves, but my research confirms this factoid. Since handprints were often found as part of the imagery in the caves, researchers have done analysis and come to the conclusion that over 60% of the paintings were likely done by females.   GO GIRLS!  (look for this research described in publications dated October-2013 including Smithsonian magazine and elsewhere)



Some of the images are wild, and make you wonder if they might represent fantasy creatures.  Many are images of now extinct animals. You'll find wooly Mammoths, and deer with huge "moose-like" horns, as well as spotted horses in these ancient paintings.
.
Scientists speculate that these leopard spotted horses may actually have been in existence during these paleolithic times!  Maybe early relatives of appaloosa or paint breeds? (my non-scientific speculation) 


One of the artists may have even been an early relative of Kilroy (just kidding!).  Like the Kilroy graffiti which GI's left behind at places they visited, there is an odd geometric/avian symbol found in a few different ancient cave sites in France.  Some of the sites are more than 30 Km apart from one another.  This means that one artist got around to various sites, or that various artists found meaning in  that same symbol.  That meaning has been lost to us over the thousands of years since it was made, but here it is below:


The art is obviously practiced, and was done without photos or real subjects for reference.  To create these images, we all agreed that the paintings we viewed were not the work of a novice.  The artist had obviously painted these images many times in order to be so certain with their lines.  Sometimes the contours of the rock would be used to advantage of the image.


It was not possible to peek around the corner and see their subject either...there was no running outside to get a look at what they were painting.  The sites where they painted were often circuitous,treacherous  routes which were only reached by winding your way through stalagmites and stalactite  riddled passages and multiple tunnels, often about half a football field underground.  That seems to rule out the idea of a carcass being nearby for reference.  These images were done from memory.  Impressive!

Each painting must have been executed by the light of a small hand held oil lamp made out of rock.  I kept thinking...what if they ran out of oil?  How would they ever find their way out?  No one would ever hear you if you called for help.  The pathway was treacherous, filled with stalagmites and stalactites.  The path was also winding and a long distance from the surface in order to get to the chambers where they painted. No rope would be long enough to mark the trail.  Cave bears inhabited the caves, so if you got past them and didn't break your neck on the way, you had better be sure you didn't run out of oil!  Finding your way out would have taken more than a trail of bread crumbs!  Yikes!
stalactites drip limestone from above and form the stalagmite below

The caves are in danger of contamination from visitors.  Our breath and the contamination from our fingers introduce changes which threaten the environment of the caves.The real Lescaux caves have been closed to visitors, and all you can see now is an exacting replica.  I've heard it's wonderful, but seeing the real thing at Cougnac and Pechmerle may be something future generations may not be able to do.

That's why I say, "GO!", and "GO SOON!"  Enjoy these photos, but understand that they DO NOT do the real experience any justice. The environment is mystical and imparts a sense of the supernatural to these ancient works of art.  I found myself wondering if Gaudi may have visited these caves and been inspired to create his drippy style of architecture found in the Sagrada Familia cathedral in Barcelona...What do you think??

We could not take photos of the art while in the caves, but we could photograph the rock formations.  My photos of the rocks were done while I was underground, but my only record from the cave paintings are the quick sketches I did while in their presence.   Thankfully, the internet allows me to share these photos of the actual cave paintings here.  I used my sketches of the images while in the caves in order to do a painting which was inspired by all that I saw.   A photo of that painting is below.   I can't wait to introduce this subject to my students as an interesting and playful lesson for us to paint together in the studio when I get back home...
Ancient Apparitions -Watercolor, acrylic gesso, ink on paper  11X15 $300
Rebecca Zdybel

Let me hear from you! I look forward to your comments.

Rebecca Zdybel
Artist, Instructor, Art-Travel Instructor
Art Lessons in all media
Myrtle Beach, SC
rebecca@artmyrtlebeach.com

Spread Light, Share Love, DO Art!


Feel free to share any of this blog post on your own blog or website, but I ask that you you include:
Rebecca Zdybel is an artist and instructor in Myrtle Beach, SC.  Follow her and see her work at http://www.artmyrtlebeach.com/


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Saturday, May 31, 2014

Le Vieux Couvent- Frayssinet, France

Le Vieux Couvent- Where Artists Come to Play (and enjoy good food!)


Le Vieux Couvent welcomes all artists
Walk in the gates and expect to be transported... immediately you have a sense of walking into a "Secret Garden".  Every corner is seemingly composed as if to be painted or photographed.  Corinne Campbell and her partner Bill Boychuk, have transformed a compound of historic houses within the small French village of Frayssinet, and formed an artists' retreat.   




This lovely place was conceived as a destination for artists by the warm and welcoming hostess Corrinne. Her husband Bill, and their son also help to manage things. A small and friendly staff helps cook and clean.  

Le Vieux Couvent gardens
Check out a few of my photos from the grounds...Don't you see a potential painting in every one!

Le Vieux Couvent lilies
And have I mentioned the food??  With greens often picked fresh from the garden, Corinne has a mediterranean slant on her French cuisine.  Our breakfast was included each day, with lunch prepared for us most days.  
Prosciutto and Melon with Port wine reduction




The food at Le Vieux Couvent is beautiful and delicious





The bridge at Cahors
The staff even prepared a classic picnic with linens and wine for our market day.  Our picnic was on the shore of the river in Cahors.  Such fun! 
Enjoying a picnic on the riverbank after a morning at the market.

At 6PM we always enjoyed aperitifs to accompany our critique of paintings from the day.  Somehow we were always ready!
Joel arrives with our aperitifs as the bells in the church chime 6PM
Our celebration supper- isn't it beautiful?!
  

Lunch and dinners were always inclusive of local wines.  And I have to mention the French cheese course and dessert.  Yummmmm! 


The cheese course is a regular part of ending our meals...just before dessert!

We actually do more than just eat here too...The art studio is spacious and well lit for artists to set up and leave their materials at their work tables. The room is great for both daytime and nighttime painting (important for night-owls like me!) They also have portable chairs to take with you on location, as well as extra umbrellas and boards for use as supports.  There are lots of large tables, a heater and a sink in the studio.   It makes working in the studio very comfortable.  The extra supplies can lighten your packing requirements too.  

Located in the village of Frayssinet, Le Vieux Couvent is well located for day-trips to many beautiful and authentic French villages in their region of the Dordogne.  This time of year, the poppies are beginning to blossom, but we did not see fields full of them.  However, the iris and jacaranda trees are in their full glory.   Enjoy these photos and let me know if you are interested in joining me for a future trip to Le Vieux Couvent!  I can't wait to return...
These flowers are from "the neighbors garden" at Le Vieux Couvent.  If you're  lucky, your group will get an invitation to take a tour!

Let me hear from you! I read every comment and it means a lot to know you are out there reading.


Rebecca Zdybel
Artist, Instructor, Art-Travel Instructor
Art Lessons in all media
Myrtle Beach, SC
rebecca@artmyrtlebeach.com

Spread Light, Share Love, DO Art!

Feel free to share any of this blog post on your own blog or website, but I ask that you you include:
Rebecca Zdybel is an artist and instructor in Myrtle Beach, SC.  Follow her and see her work at http://www.artmyrtlebeach.com/


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Carcassone, France

Using Toulouse as my base of operations, I rented a car and drove to a couple of different places.  Carcassonne, is an impressively intact fortified medieval city. It is beautiful to look at and I thought it might be fun to see in person.  I was thinking about setting up from a distance, and trying to paint or draw the exterior fortifications.


I rented a small car, and without consulting me, I was given a stick-shift vehicle.  Thankfully that was  not a problem for me.  I did request a GPS, and that was a life-saver.  The roads were well marked, but I would probably not have been as successful navigating aroundp the countryside on my own unless I had the GPS.  If I had a companion to help me navigate, it may have been possible to get by without it.

According to maps, Carcassonne was about 60 miles (90 km) and so that seemed about an hour from Toulouse.  If you go by car, follow the signs from City Center of the Lower City to 'Le Cite'.  That seems to be the designation they give to the castle area.  I took the "scenic route" on the way there (the one without toll roads), and it was not worth the need to stop and go.  I'd definitely opt to drive the toll road both ways next time.  The scenery was actually better from the toll road.  The took about an hour on the toll road.


I went despite what I'd read on Rick Steve's website. The reviews were not great, and in the end, they were right.  Though it was impressive and majestic to see, it was not at all authentic.  Really, it was pretty much a tourist trap...but, nonetheless, I'm glad I saw it.  If you go, don't plan to spend a long time. A walk through is fine.  The church has pretty stained glass inside, should you want to take a look.  The wind can be VERY strong, as it gets channeled through gaps in the walls.  Plan on wearing an extra layer if it's at all cold.  All in all, it's a beautiful to look at, but lacks soul.  Not a place to hang out.  The wind was so intense, I decided to draw it another time.

Cassoulet is the specialty of every dining establishment. I might eat elsewhere or even bring a picnic, since you can get into Le Cite' for free.




 This is the double wall around the city.  This space between the two walls used to have a moat in between the walls!

If this city were to be attacked, you'd definitely need to plan on starving them out, because there would be no way too break through these walls and moats.  


Though my trip was not as I'd expected it to be, I was happy I went.  Ironically, the hardest part of the trip was figuring out how to get out of the parking garage! It's funny how stupid you can feel when you can't process the words in front of you.  

On the way back, I stopped at Le Grand Round in Toulouse and enjoyed a park, Boulingrin. Beautiful on a weekend afternoon...with Toulouse natives enjoying the sunshine and the gardens there.  I happily painted a little sketch there where I had some sunshine and very little breeze.  All in all a great day.

Here's some photos from the park, and a little sketch from my afternoon spent there...












Let me hear from you! I read every comment and it means a lot to know you are out there reading.



Rebecca Zdybel
Artist, Instructor, Art-Travel Instructor
Art Lessons in all media
Myrtle Beach, SC
rebecca@artmyrtlebeach.com

Spread Light, Share Love, DO Art!


Feel free to share any of this blog post on your own blog or website, but I ask that you you include:
Rebecca Zdybel is an artist and instructor in Myrtle Beach, SC.  Follow her and see her work at http://www.artmyrtlebeach.com/


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Albi France- Visit to the Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec Museum

The town of Albi is an adorable place to go in France.  It is approximately an hour drive from Toulouse.  I went on both the toll roads and the "non-toll road route".  The scenery is not better along the slow roads, so definitely take the highway.  It's about 1.5 Euros, so not much money.

Once you get there, you'll find a quaint and beautiful town which has an impressive cathedral.  Albi was home to Henri Toulouse-Loutrec and his family. It is now the home of the museum which bears his name and houses much of his work.  I am really glad I made the trip.  Parking is easy, and the metered lots near the museum are simple to negotiate with a few coins.  I stayed about 2.5 hoursin the museum, and probably spent more time than most people would need to spend to see the entire collection.


You may not know that his parents were titled and wealthy first cousins who married and had two children.  Henri's sibling died young and it left him as an only child.  Henri had a congenital abnormality which caused him to be at risk for fractures and have brittle bones.  He broke two major bones as a child which left the bones stunted, and caused him to be shorter than normal. He had a problem with drinking and was confined to an asylum for a time.  Upon his release, his parents hired a cousin to be his sober companion and to keep him out of trouble for the family.



 Henri was educated as an artist, and painted in oil, as well as other mediums. He drew as a child, and continued as his career progressed.  I was not aware how many horses he painted, unitil visiting the museum.  He also evolved as an artist and ended up concentrating on portraits.  As a post-impressionist painter, the rebellion of catering to the French Salon had already occurred with the likes of Monet and Manet.  Lautrec lived as a Bohemian and painted among the working class, bar room crowds of Monte Martre in Paris...ptobably painting in the same environment in which he was drinking...


Two things really struck me after viewing this collection:
1. Though Toulouse de Lautrec painted women of ill repute- he did so with respect.  He portrayed them as wormen and as people.  Unlike Picasso and his drawings and representations of wormen (which were almost pornographic in my opinion). Lautrec's paintings and drawings were not nasty in any way.  In fact, they were often sensitive.
2.  Contour drawing was the basis for much of his work, especially in the later years when he produced so many prints and lithographs for the clubs and entertainers who were his patrons.  These are his most famous and reproduced works .  Contour drawing is simply rendering the edges of your subject.  Lautrec ususally did this with bold line work and then painted flat areas of color.  Words were also a large part of the design.

Here's an Idea for you Artists out there :

I've been encouraging my students to think about using contour drawing as a basis for their paintings.  If you haven't tried it, think about doing a simple drawing with a continuous line.  Pick up the pencil (but I'd recommend pen) and try to keep your eyes on your subject.  Look only when you need to, and try to look at your subject more than 80 percent of the time.  You will find that if you draw what you see, and not what you "think" is there, you will come up with some surpisingly cool drawings. This painting began with a contour pen sketch...some flat areas of color and some words, and as they say here in France, "Voila!"


If you wast to paint like Toulouse Le Trec...think about doing a contour drawing,using flat areas of color and perhaps adding words to your painting..


Here's a quick sketch from my sketchbook that might illustrate the idea with my version of Toulouse Lautrec's dancing girls. .  Give this technique a try- You might like it!
 

Sunday, May 4, 2014

The Best Restaurant in Toulouse- Fil a la une

Toulose is a hip little town.  It's old, beautiful, and not touristy.  People are lively and friendly, but reserved in typical French style.  A lovely river runs through it and the architecture is old world, but more Napoleonic than medieval...kind of like Paris.  There are lots of restaurants and young people, due to the universities here.  You see a lot of people smoking "roll your own" and generally acting the hipster, but it provides some local 'color".

It's a pretty town.  I like the occasional fountain in the plazas and spent some time painting the statues, fountains, and ornate lamp-posts in the Boulingrin today.  It's a lovely park in the middle of Le Grand Round (a bigger than average roundabout in the City Center).




Best Restaurant in Toulouse! La Fil a la Lune-


This is my new little favorite place to have a bite of dinner and some great wine in Toulouse, France.  Reservations are a good idea, since they are incredibly busy.  phone # 05 62 26 27 14.  Address: 8 Place du Pont Neuf 31000 Toulouse.  Located on the corner of Place Esquirol and Place du Pont Neuf...right at the bridge.

Stroll along the riverfront park at sunset and then make your way to dinner.




Coming here by myself, they have made me feel very welcome every time I enter the door...even special.  Almost like my own version of French "Cheers". And there's plenty to keep me occupied once I take a seat, with lots to watch while sitting here eating dinner.  The owner, Gilles, is an animated and friendly guy who speaks a bit of English.  This has been helpful, as people are not generally fluent in English in Toulouse.  Gilles is a hard working owner, and runs around making everyone happy...occasionally even pounding a bottle down on a table and encouraging everyone to take a shot-on the house!  No wonder so many customers seem happy.


But in reality, it's the food! Not only is it good to eat, but every plate looks beautiful.  I am left wanting to take photos of each dish that passes by me.  The crowd is young to middle age, but I'm pushing the top end of middle age.  Lots of smiles and good vibrations.  Steaks and burgers are the staple fare, and the papas fritte are to die for!  I had the steak...very tasty. They make their own delicious fois gras and serve it on cool slabs of black slate.  Ask for the white wine they actually use to make it, and experience the perfect wine pairing.  In addition, the salads are gargantuan and gorgeous! On this, my third night in a row, I am determined to try one of those lovely salads- 13-14 Euros, but so much food!  Huge burgers from 12-25 euros and steaks are similarly reasonable.Bottles of wine are from 20-30 Euros,and glasses from 3.50 to 6.50.  Great prices for the quality.

One suggestion- Try to avoid sitting on or near the front veranda, unless you are not bothered by cigarette smoke.  (That's one thing about France...so many people smoke in public spaces here.)

Hotel Pere Leon- Quiet and nice staff.  I got a double room and had nice light and space to paint when the day was rainy.  The shower and facilities were clean and modern.  I felt safe on the street at night and there was a safe in the room.  I would not necessarily have breakfast there.  The coffee (a BIG part of my day) was very mediocre.  There seems to be an unfortunate trend inn some of the places I visited where they are using push button coffee dispensers- YUCK.  It tastes plastic.  There were many coffee shops and Patisseries in the area, and I would suggest planning on those in the morning.

If you go, tell them I sent you and have a nice glass of AOC Crozes Hermitages for me!

 
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